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Akoya Pearls

Saltwater, or marine, pearls cultivated in Japan and produced by the Japanese Akoya oyster, Pinctada martensii or Pinctada fucata are considered the 'standard' in round, white pearls.

South Sea Pearls

The "queen" of cultured pearls, larger than Akoya pearls, the South Sea Pearl averages between 9 and 14 mm. Pearls over 16 mm are considered exceptionally large. Produced by Pinctada maxima, a saltwater oyster measuring over a foot in diameter, South Sea pearls are cultivated mostly in the waters of Australia.

The nacre coating of a South Sea pearl is thicker than other cultured pearls due to their longer cultivation period. Besides thicker nacre, South Sea pearls are less perfectly round than Akoya pearls, but magnificent and very costly. Silvery-white color is highly desirable, as is pinkish white and golden tones. Although more expensive than other pearls, the thick nacre of South Sea pearls ensures that they may be worn and enjoyed for many generations.

Tahitian Pearls

Saltwater cultured black pearls cultivated in the black-lipped oyster, Pinctada margaritifera, in lagoons off Tahiti.
Tahitian pearls, ranging from gray to black in color, are the most desirable. The color of Tahitian pearls is 100% natural and not dyed. It can take many years to harvest enough black pearls matching in color, shape and size, to make a necklace.
With colors ranging from platinum gray to multi-hued "peacock" black, Tahitian pearls are exotic and luxurious. 
Tahitian pearls may be as large as 20 mm, (rare) but the average size ranges from 8 to 12 mm.

Freshwater Pearls

Cultivated in lakes, ponds or rivers, in mussels, not oysters,
the cultivation procedure for freshwater pearls is simpler as well as self-renewing. Freshwater mussels can spontaneously grow pearls a second and third time without intervention.
This less labor-intensive cultivation translates into lower cost pearls. 

Freshwater pearls have thicker nacre and an irregular shape which often result in high iridescence and high luster. Off-round and baroque freshwater pearls may sell for a fraction of the price of saltwater pearls of similar luster, size and color. Although they sell for less than saltwater pearls, freshwater pearls are not lower quality pearls.

Biwa Pearls

Originate in Lake Biwa, Japan. Increasingly rare today due to near-depletion of the Biwa mussel, Biwa pearls have a flat surface and high luster.

Keshi Pearls

An increasingly rare pearl, the word keshi means poppy seed in Japanese. Keshi pearls form spontaneously in the soft tissue of the mollusk, and are a by-product of pearl cultivation. There is ongoing debate over whether keshi pearls are "natural" pearls. The issue is unclear because although keshi pearls form naturally without intervention, this only happens in cultivated mollusks.

Today keshi pearls also refer to a larger pearl without nuclei that form naturally in cultivated South Sea oysters and in freshwater mussels. The Keshi is noted for high iridescence, luster, and irregular shape.

Mabé  Pearls

Are assembled pearls, produced by the oyster Pteria penguin. Usually half-round shape, these fragile pearls are created by filling a hollow blister and backing it with mother-of-pearl. Less expensive mabé  pearls have plastic backings. If the mabé  is mounted in a ring, earrings, or brooch, it is almost impossible to see the backing. But usually these less-quality mabés have thin nacre and thus low luster. 

Pearl Shapes

Round pearls are the most valued shape today. As pearl size increases, round pearls become increasingly rare and expensive. Other pearl shapes can be beautiful and desirable.

Personally, I look for pearls in unusual shapes to create unique fine jewelry.

Shapes include:   

Baroque, Off-Round, Oval , Button, Potato, Coin, Toothpick , Petal, Striated or Ringed. 

  Pearl Qualities

Luster is the most important factor when selecting these complexion-enhancing gems. Luster comes from within the pearl and is not to be confused with surface shine. False or faux pearls may have high surface shine -- this is not luster. When you see the two types together, the difference is apparent. If luster is high, then the nacre will be thick. Thick nacre in turn ensures that well-cared for pearls will have a long life.

Avoid thin nacre, milky-white or chalk-white pearls.

Remember, the longer a pearl grows in the mollusk, the less chance it will be round. Low quality round pearls will have thin nacre.

Surface or Cleanliness

Since pearls are organic gems grown in mollusks, most pearls are not blemish-free. The fewer the blemishes a pearl has, the more expensive the pearl.

Color

Is a matter of personal taste, with pearls in white, black, mauve, pink, gold, silver-white, bronze (copper), peacock - to name a few. Select pearls that suit your skin tone and sense of style.

Size

Seed pearls are the smallest, and South Sea pearls, the largest. The larger the pearl, the more expensive it is.
Pearls are measured by their diameter in millimeters.

Match

Pearls with a good match, are evenly matched for luster, shape, surface, color and size. Match is an important element in pearl pricing - the better the match, the higher the price.

Necklace Length Guide

Choker: Depending on individual neck size, a choker is 14 to 15 inches long and rests on the collarbone.

Princess: A 16 to 18-inch length necklace of either graduated pearls or uniform pearls.

Matinee: A bit longer than princess, matinee length necklaces range from 20 to 24 inches.

Opera: From 30- to 36-inches long, opera length necklaces can be worn full-length or doubled.

Rope: Necklaces longer than opera, and worn knotted or with a shortener.

Dog Collar: A necklace composed of many strands, worn tightly around the neck.

Bib: Single necklace with strands of graduated lengths.

Torsade: Usually composed of freshwater pearls, multiple strands are twisted together and held with a multi-strand clasp.

Graduated: Are pearls of gradually decreasing size with the largest at the center and the smallest at the clasp.

Uniform: A necklace in which the pearls appear to be the same size or with a 1/2 mm difference.

 Protecting Your Pearls

Quality pearls can last for generations if properly cared for.

• Store pearls in their folder or a soft cloth bag, separate from other jewelry, especially metal. 
• Wash occasionally with a soft damp cloth with mild soapy water to rid pearls of harmful acidic oils and perspiration. Follow with a clean water rinse and dry them gently with a soft cloth.
• Have pearls restrung periodically -- once every two years if worn frequently. Be sure they are re-strung on silk, with a knot between each pearl to prevent chafing and to guard against pearl loss if the strand should break.
• Prevent pearls from cracking and peeling by storing them in a humid atmosphere. 
• Do not wear pearls in chlorinated water or wear them in the shower.
• Do not clean pearls with chemical cleansers or allow them to come into contact with ammonia or bleach.
• Do not allow perfume or hairspray to diffuse on pearls. Apply hairspray and perfumes first and allow them to dry before putting on pearls. 
• NEVER clean pearls in an ultrasonic cleaner.